JELLY MAKING, PRESERVING, AND PICKLING

JELLY MAKING, PRESERVING, AND PICKLING

VALUE OF JELLIES, PRESERVES, AND PICKLES

1. Like canning and drying, JELLY MAKING, PRESERVING, and PICKLING are methods of preparing perishable foods to resist decomposition and change. When treated by any of these three processes, fruits and vegetables will keep for long periods of time and will thus be ready for use during the seasons when they cannot be obtained fresh. The preservation of food by making it into jellies, preserves, and pickles does not, as in the case of canning, depend on the sterilization of the product, but rather on the use of certain ingredients that act as preservatives. These include sugar, spices, salt, and vinegar, all of which are considered harmless preservatives in both the home and the commercial preparation of foods.

2. The making of jelly, preserves, and pickles may seem like an extravagance in the expenditure of money for materials, as well as of time and energy on the part of the housewife. Whether this is the case or not is a matter that must be decided by the housewife herself. If these foods are not of enough value to her in the preparation of meals and the feeding of her family to make it worth her while to use her time and materials in storing them for winter use, then it is not wise for her to prepare them. But foods so preserved usually have sufficient merit to warrant the expenditure of the time and the money required in their making.

3. In the first place, it will often be necessary to throw away material that would make excellent jelly or jam unless the sugar can be supplied and the time given to make this material into something that is edible and at the same time attractive. As is well known, all through the canning season, there is some material, which may have been intended for canning, but which, for some reason, cannot be used in that way. Such material should be utilized in the preparation of these foods. For instance, some of the berries and other fruits bought for canning may be found to be too ripe to make a good-looking product, but may be very satisfactory for the making of jars or jellies. Then, too, if the open-kettle method of canning is used, there is almost certain to be a superfluous amount of juice that would be wasted if it were not used in the making of jelly. Such material need not necessarily be used at the time, for it may be canned and then made up later at some more convenient time.

In addition to material of this kind, there is often a surplus of vegetables and fruits on hand, particularly if one has access to a garden. Much of this can be canned and dried, but what is not desired for these purposes might be wasted if it were not made up into appetizing jellies, preserves, and pickles.

4. Even though it were not necessary to consider the matter of waste and the utilizing of surplus fruits and vegetables, there would still be sufficient reason for the making of jellies, preserves, and pickles, because these foods, when properly prepared, have great value in the meal. Jellies and preserves, because of the large quantity of sugar used in them, are foods high in carbohydrate. In view of this fact, they should be considered as a part of the meal in which they are served, instead of being used extravagantly or regarded as something extra in an already sufficiently large menu.

Besides their importance in food value, they should have a place in the diet because they stimulate the appetite through their attractive colors and delicious flavors. The familiar fact that a child will refuse to eat plain bread and butter, but will accept the same piece when it has been made attractive by the addition of a little jam, argues much for the use of foods of this sort in children's diet. As it is with children, so it is to a large extent with adults. During the winter months, when fruits and fresh vegetables are scarce and expensive, practically every one finds jellies and preserves appetizing, for these things, in a measure, take the place of the foods that are difficult to procure.

5. Not so much can be said of the various kinds of pickles, as they are not so valuable in the diet from the standpoint of food values. They are made from fruits and vegetables, as are jellies and preserves, but the preservatives used in their preparation are vinegar and spices. In addition to having no food value, such ingredients produce overstimulation and irritation in the alimentary tract, toughen the cellulose in the foods used, and consequently often cause indigestion and various gastric disturbances. For these reasons, pickles should not be included in the diet of children. However, because of the stimulation they produce in the stomach, foods of this kind, if taken in small quantities, are properly served as appetizers, and can be eaten by normal adults without fear of digestive disturbances. Then, too, as every one who has meals to prepare knows, they are valuable for relieving monotony in the diet, a point that should not be overlooked.

6. Because the preservation of food in jellies, preserves, and pickles is accomplished by the use of certain preservatives instead of by the sterilization of the food, as in canning, these preparations do not mold or spoil readily. Therefore, containers of a different nature from those used in canning may be used to store these foods. Jars having tightly sealed covers are not required, but such containers as wide-necked bottles, stone jars or crocks, glasses, etc. may be utilized for this purpose. In fact, containers of almost any description may be used for jellies, preserves, and pickles. They should, of course, be sealed in some way to prevent the entrance of bacteria, and various methods of accomplishing this have been devised. A very satisfactory way consists in pouring melted paraffin over the top of the food and then covering the container with a piece of heavy paper and tying this on securely with cord.

7. Since jellies, preserves, and pickles occupy a place of importance in the diet and at the same time provide an opportunity to utilize material that might otherwise be wasted, they are entitled to a certain amount of attention from the housewife. To equip her with the knowledge she needs for this work and give her practice in jelly making, preserving, and pickling, the details of these processes are taken up, step by step, in this Section.

JELLY MAKING

PRINCIPLES OF JELLY MAKING

8. JELLY MAKING consists in cooking fruit juice with sugar until, upon cooling, it will solidify, or jell. While this is not a difficult nor a complicated process, there are some housewives who do not have success with it. Often the result may be very good when a certain fruit is used, whereas it may be entirely unsatisfactory at another time, even though the same fruit is used and practically the same procedure is followed. If the best results are to be assured in jelly making, the principles that are involved in this process must first be thoroughly understood and then the correct procedure must be painstakingly followed out.

9. To solidify properly and thus become a desirable jelly, the fruit juice that is used for this purpose must have the following characteristics and treatment: (1) it must contain certain jelly-making properties; (2) it must be extracted properly; (3) it must be combined with the correct proportion of sugar; and (4) it must be cooked the proper length of time. There are, of course, numerous degrees of solidity of jelly, varying from that which will barely retain its shape to that which is very tough and hard, but neither extreme is desirable. To be right, the jelly should be firm enough to stand up well, but should be tender and soft when a spoon is cut into it.

10. Fruit is the principal ingredient in the making of jelly, as it is the source from which the juice is obtained. Such imperfections in fruits as poor shape or unattractive appearance do not count in this matter, since only the juice is used; but they must contain jelly-making properties in order that jelly can be made from them.

Green or slightly unripe fruits are better for jelly making than fruits that have become ripe. In fact, when in this immature state, fruits may be used to make jelly, whereas the same fruits, when perfectly ripe, often will not make jelly at all, or, if they do, will produce a jelly that is inferior in quality.

11. The chief requirement of fruits that are to be used for jelly making is that they contain acid and pectin. Pectin is the real jelly-making property of fruits. When it is in the presence of acid and combined with the correct proportion of sugar and the combination is properly boiled, a desirable jelly is the result. Without pectin, however, it is impossible to make the juice solidify, or jell. Pectin is closely related to the carbohydrates, but as it does not yield heat energy nor build tissue, its food value is not considered. In this respect, it is like the cellulose of fruits and vegetables.

It is because green fruits contain more pectin than do ripe fruits that they are more suitable for jelly making. The lack of either acid or pectin need not, however, prevent the making of jelly from fruits, such as sweet fruits, that contain other jelly-making properties, for either or both may be supplied from some other source. In other words, jelly may be made from any fruit that will yield juice and flavor.

EQUIPMENT FOR JELLY MAKING

12. NECESSARY EQUIPMENT.--In the making of jelly, as in the preparation of many other foods, numerous utensils will be found convenient and may, if desired, be supplied to make the work easier. However, the necessary ones are comparatively few in number and, for the most part, are found in almost every kitchen. In Fig. 1 are shown assembled practically all the equipment used in the making of jelly, and if a housewife is provided with these things or substitutes for them, she will be well equipped for her work.

13. KETTLES.--As will be observed, two kettles are required in jelly making. The larger one is used for cooking the fruit, and the smaller one, to cook the juice and the sugar. These should have a perfectly smooth surface, and may be made of almost any material used for such utensils, except tin or iron. These two metals are undesirable, as they are liable to lend to the jelly a disagreeable flavor and in all probability an unattractive color. The one used to cook the fruit should generally be a little larger than the other. As about 6 glassfuls of jelly may be cooked at one time, the kettle in which the juice is boiled should be of adequate size to cook this amount without danger of its boiling over. When fruit juice and sugar are boiled together, the mixture often boils up and runs over if the vessel is not large enough.

14. JELLY BAG.--The jelly bag, which is used for straining the boiled fruit and thus obtaining the juice, may be a home-made one or, as shown in the illustration, one that is purchased for the purpose. If the bag is made at home, a heavy, closely woven material, such as flannel, should be selected, so as to prevent the tiny particles of fruit from passing through with the juice. A liquid strained in this manner will be much clearer and will make better looking jelly than that which has been run through a coarse material, such as cheesecloth. The juice can be strained very conveniently if the bag is attached to a wire arrangement, like the one shown, or to an upright standard that can be fastened to a chair or a table, for then the bag is held securely over the vessel into which the juice drips. Sometimes, especially when more than one extraction of the juice is to be made, the first extraction is made by means of a strainer or a colander and the juice thus obtained is then strained through the bag.

15. ADDITIONAL UTENSILS.--As accurate measurements are absolutely essential in jelly making, a measuring cup should be included in the equipment. Then, too, a quart measure will be found very convenient, especially if large quantities of materials are to be cooked at one time. A large spoon or two for stirring, skimming, and testing should also be provided. The spoon used for skimming will produce better results if the bowl contains holes that will permit the juice to drop back into the vessel, for then none of the juice will be wasted.

16. CONTAINERS FOR JELLY.--Various types of receptacles in which to keep jelly are in use, some turning out more attractive molds than others. The shape of the mold, however, is a matter of minor importance. Almost any wide-mouthed glass receptacle with comparatively smooth sides will do very well, since the sealing of jelly is not a difficult thing to do. Therefore, new receptacles should not be purchased if there is a supply of any suitable kind on hand, for many other containers besides purchased jelly glasses may be used for this purpose. The most convenient type, which may be bought in any store selling kitchen utensils, is that shown in Fig. 1. As will be observed, these are somewhat broad and not very tall. A mold of jelly turned from a tall, narrow glass does not stand up so well as that turned from a flat, wide one. Then, too, a tall glass is much more likely to tip and spill than a more shallow one.

17. Metal covers that fit the tops of the glasses, like the ones shown, are the most convenient kind that can be used, but they are not an absolute necessity. In their place may be used paper caps that fit the glasses, or the tops of the glasses may be covered with paper and then tied. Before a cover of any kind is put on a glass, paraffin, several cakes of which are arranged on a plate in Fig. 1, is melted and poured in a thin layer over the top of the jelly itself.

To designate the kind of jelly, it is advisable to label the glasses with neat labels, a box of which is included in the equipment here shown.

18. Paraffin-covered paper cups have been recommended to take the place of jelly glasses, and while they do very well in the case of scarcity of containers they have some disadvantages. In the first place, they can be used only once, as it is impossible to wash them. In addition, it will be necessary to wait until the jelly is partly cold before pouring it into such cups, as hot jelly will melt the paraffin on the surface of the paper.

PROCEDURE IN JELLY MAKING

19. When the necessary utensils have been conveniently placed and the desired fruit has been selected, the housewife may proceed at once to the work of making jelly. Each step is here outlined in the order in which it should be taken up in doing the actual work. The entire procedure should be properly followed out in order to insure the best results, and every part of the work should be carefully done so as to avoid any waste of material.

20. COOKING THE FRUIT.--Prepare the fruit in whatever way is necessary. The preparation needed will depend, of course, on the kind of fruit selected for the jelly, but usually not so much preparation is needed as in the case of canning. For instance, when crab-apple jelly is made, the stems are removed and the fruit is cut into halves or quarters, but they need not be peeled nor have the seeds taken out. Specific directions for the different varieties of fruits are given in the various recipes. The chief precaution to take in preparing the fruit, no matter what kind is used, is to see that it is thoroughly cleaned.

With the fruit prepared, put it into a large kettle and add enough water to start the cooking and prevent scorching. Some fruits will require more water than others, especially when they must be cooked a long time in order to soften them sufficiently to extract the juice. Juicy fruits, like plums, need only the minimum amount of water, while drier fruits, such as apples, require more. Place the kettle on the stove, as in Fig. 2, and allow the fruit to cook until it is soft or is reduced to a pulp. The length of time for cooking will also depend entirely on the kind of fruit that is being used.

21. EXTRACTING JUICE.--When the fruit is thoroughly cooked, pour the pulp and the juice that has formed into the jelly bag and allow it to drip into a pan placed directly under the bag, as shown in Fig. 3. Formerly, it was the custom to let the juice drip until no more remained in the bag. This method is followed to some extent at present, but it is falling into disuse, as it is not the most economical way of extracting the juice from the pulp. More juice can be obtained and more jelly made from the same amount of fruit if three extractions instead of one are made. Make the first extraction by pouring the pulp and juice into the bag and permitting the juice to drip only until it begins to run very slowly. Then return the pulp to the kettle, add a small quantity of water, and let it boil again for a few minutes. Pour it the second time into the jelly bag, and let it drip as before. Cook it the third time in the same way, and then allow it to drip until all the juice is extracted. At this point, mix the juice from the three extractions. They should not be used separately, for they are much different in quality, the third one being not so good as the second and the second, inferior to the first. On the other hand, when all three are mixed, an excellent quality is the result, provided all conditions are correct, and a larger quantity of juice is obtained for the jelly.

22. The quantity of juice that may be extracted depends on the quality as well as the kind of fruit. If the season is a rainy one, the fruits will be found to contain more juice than they would in a dry season. Then, too, if the fruits are picked immediately after a rain, they will contain more juice than the same fruits before the rain. The amount of juice the fruit contains determines, of course, the quantity of water that should be added in the cooking. If only one extraction is intended, 3 to 4 quarts of water may be used for 8 quarts of fruit, depending on the kind of fruit; but if three extractions are to be made, less water should be added for each extraction. In case the extracted juice contains more water than it should have, either because the fruit contains an excessive amount of water or because too much water was added to the fruit in its cooking, the superfluous water will be extracted by boiling the juice with the sugar a little longer as the jelly is being made.

It is not always necessary to have the fleshy part of fruit for jelly making, for often the skins, seeds, and cores of fruits may be cooked with water and the juice then extracted from them. Another point to remember is that the pulp from which the juice is extracted may sometimes be used for jam or marmalade. If points like these are taken into consideration, it will not be necessary to waste any part of edible fruits.

23. TESTING THE JUICE FOR PECTIN.--When the juice has been extracted from the fruit, it should be tested for pectin in order to determine whether or not it will be satisfactory for the making of jelly. A test that can be applied by the housewife is illustrated in Fig. 4. Into a tumbler, put a tablespoonful of juice and with this mix a tablespoonful of alcohol. If, upon adding the alcohol, the fruit juice turns into a gelatinous, or jelly-like, mass that may be easily gathered up on the spoon, it may be known that pectin is present. As has already been stated, the presence of this substance in fruit juice insures the fact that jelly can be made from the juice.

24. USING JUICE LACKING IN PECTIN.--If, in the test for pectin, the addition of alcohol to the fruit juice does not turn the juice into a jelly-like mass, pectin is not present. Such juice, or juice that contains only a small amount of pectin, will prove unsuccessful in jelly making unless some substance or juice high in pectin is added to it. The white skin from the inside of orange, lemon, or grapefruit peelings or the juice from apples, crab apples, currants, green gooseberries, or other fruit containing a large quantity of pectin may be used for this purpose. Also, commercial pectin may be purchased and used with fruits according to the directions that accompany it.

It is always necessary to supply pectin in some way to such fruits as strawberries, peaches, raspberries, blueberries, cherries, pears, etc. To the sweet ones, like peaches and raspberries, lemon juice or other acid fruit juice also must be added if satisfactory jelly is desired.

25. DETERMINING PROPORTION OF SUGAR.--The only other ingredient used in jelly making, besides the fruit juice, is sugar. After the juice has been strained from the fruit, the next step is to determine how much sugar must be used. This is of extreme importance, as the success of the jelly depends very largely on whether or not the correct proportion is used. If too much sugar is added to the juice, a greater quantity of jelly will result, but it will not stand up as it should when it is turned out of the glass. On the other hand, if too little sugar is used, a smaller quantity of jelly than the required amount will be made and it will be tough and sour.

26. It is difficult to give the exact proportion of sugar to use with every kind of fruit, for some fruits require more than others. However, in general, 3/4 cupful of sugar to each cupful of juice, as shown in Fig. 5, will be sufficient. This is especially true if the season has been a dry one and the fruits are neither very sour nor very juicy. After a wet season or with very sour or very juicy fruits, it will usually be necessary to use 1 cupful of sugar to each cupful of juice.

27. Much waste of sugar and spoiling of jelly can be avoided by the use of the test for pectin, which has just been described. After the juice and the alcohol have been mixed, pour the mixture slowly from the glass, noting how the pectin is precipitated. If it is precipitated as one lump, a cupful of sugar may be used for each cupful of juice; if in several lumps, the proportion of sugar must be reduced to approximately three-fourths the amount of juice. If the pectin is not in lumps, but is merely precipitated, the sugar should be one-half or less of the amount of the juice.

28. To assist in determining the correct proportion of sugar to use in the making of jelly, the hydrometer, or sirup gauge, which is explained in Canning and Drying, will be found helpful. After the juice has been extracted, mix with a small amount of it the proportion of sugar that is to be used when the jelly is cooked. Allow the sugar to dissolve completely, pour a little of the mixture into a glass or a graduate, and insert the hydrometer, as shown in Fig. 6. Regardless of the kind of juice, the hydrometer should register 25 degrees for perfect jelly. If it registers less than 25 degrees, more sugar should be added. Then if it is necessary to add either sugar or juice, the additional ingredient should be carefully measured in order that the proportions may be correct for the making of jelly. It must not be understood that a hydrometer is an actual necessity in the making of jelly, for very good jelly can be made without measuring the ingredients in this manner. However, if a hydrometer is not used, it will be necessary to apply the best judgment possible to the rules given for the proportion of ingredients used in jelly making.

29. COMBINING THE JUICE AND SUGAR.--The mixing of the juice and the sugar may seem like a trivial matter, but in reality much is involved in combining these ingredients properly. It may be done in three different ways. In the first method, which is called long boiling, the sugar and the juice are mixed cold and are then allowed to come to the boiling point together. The second, which is known as mean boiling, consists in putting the cold juice on the stove, allowing it to boil about half the required time, and then adding the sugar, which has also been heated. In the third, which is known as the short-boiling method, the juice is boiled without the sugar almost the full length of time required for making the jelly, and the sugar, which has been heated, is added just before the boiling is completed.

30. Experience in the use of these three methods has shown their advantages and disadvantages. The first one, or the long-boiling process, has the disadvantage of losing sugar through the skimming that is always necessary in the making of jelly. In addition, the long boiling often causes the sugar to crystallize and thus produces a jelly that would not score very high. The short boiling is not entirely satisfactory, because of the difficulty in determining just when to add the sugar to the juice. The process of mean boiling, having neither of these drawbacks and usually resulting in jelly of excellent quality, is the most satisfactory and the one that is recommended.

To carry out this method, place the sugar in a pan in a warm oven or other place where it will gradually become heated without either melting or scorching. Put the juice over the fire in a saucepan and let it boil for 5 to 8 minutes. Then, as shown in Fig. 7, slowly add the correct proportion of hot sugar to the boiling juice, stirring constantly so that the sugar will dissolve as quickly as possible.

31. BOILING THE JUICE AND SUGAR.--The boiling of the juice, both before and after the sugar is added, should be done rapidly. During this process, it will be found that a scum will form over the top of the juice. This should be skimmed off as it forms, for it is a detriment to the jelly. As shown in Fig. 8, draw a large spoon over the top of the boiling juice from time to time and skim off the scum that rises, placing it into any small dish that is handy. It is usually advisable to do as much skimming as possible before the sugar is added, so that only a minimum amount of sugar will be lost.

The length of time required to boil the juice after the sugar is added depends very largely on the way in which the boiling is carried on. If the mixture is boiled rapidly, less time will, of course, be needed than if it is boiled slowly. Therefore, no definite time can be set for the cooking. However, several tests may be resorted to in order to determine whether the sugar and juice have boiled long enough to jell when the mixture is cold.

32. TESTING THE JELLY MIXTURE.--The testing of the mixture can be done in various ways, the one to select depending on the success the housewife has in using them. A means very often resorted to consists in dipping a spoonful or two of the mixture out of the kettle and pouring it on the flat surface of a cold dish. If it is cooked sufficiently, it will solidify when it is cold and will appear just like jelly. The disadvantage of this test lies in the fact that the jelly on the stove continues to boil while the test is being made, and as this takes several minutes, the jelly is likely to overboil to a considerable extent. Tests that can be performed more quickly are therefore more satisfactory.

33. A test that invariably proves successful consists in dipping up a spoonful of the juice and allowing it to run slowly from the spoon back into the pan. If, as shown in Fig. 9, a double row of drops forms on the spoon with the last of the jelly that remains, it may be known that the cooking is finished.

34. Another very satisfactory test is called sheeting. In the performing of this test, a spoonful of the jelly is dipped from the pan and then poured from the spoon into the pan again. If it is cooked to the proper consistency, large drops will form at the edge of the spoon and break off quickly.

35. FILLING THE GLASSES.--As soon as it has been determined that the jelly is sufficiently cooked, it should be removed from the stove. The glasses may then be filled at once. These, together with the covers, must be thoroughly cleansed before being used, and this can be done while the jelly is cooking. After being thoroughly washed, submerge them in a pan of hot water and allow them to remain there until they are to be used. Keeping them hot in this way will prevent them from cracking when the hot jelly is poured into them. Take out one glass at a time, place it on a small plate or any small dish, and, as shown in Fig. 10, pour the hot jelly into it from the pan to within 1/4 inch of the top. Fill the remaining glasses in the same way, and then set them somewhere out of a draft to cool. If, as the jelly cools, it seems to be a little bit thin, place it somewhere in the sunshine and the heat of the sun will help to thicken it.

36. CLOSING AND STORING THE JELLY GLASSES.--The jelly should be allowed to cool completely and should then be closed for storing. The best results are obtained by putting a thin layer of paraffin over the top of the jelly in each glass before applying the cover. To do this, put into a small saucepan as much paraffin as you think will be needed to cover the jelly you have made and set this on the stove to melt. When it has melted, pour a layer about 1/8 inch thick over the surface of the jelly, as shown in Fig. 11. As soon as it cools, it will harden and thus form a protective covering for the jelly. When it is hard, cover the glass in the desired way. Covers of tin are perhaps the most satisfactory, but if these cannot be secured, heavy paper covers that fit into the glasses snugly will answer the purpose very well. In the event of not having covers of either of these kinds, cover the tops of the glasses with paper--any good wrapping paper will do--and then tie this paper securely. Just before putting the jelly away, label each glass with a neat label on which is written the name of the jelly. Then no difficulty will be experienced in selecting at once the kind of jelly desired when one is taking a glass from the place where it is stored.

SCORING JELLY

37. With jelly, as with canned fruit, it is a splendid idea for every housewife to score each kind she makes, so that she can determine how it measures up in its various characteristics. If it falls below the standard, this fact should be known, so that the fault can be remedied the next time. On the other hand, extreme satisfaction is felt if it is found to score high. To assist in scoring jelly, a score card is here given, and following it each one of the characteristics is discussed.

Per Cent. Color20 Solidity25 Flavor25 Sugar Content25 Method of Sealing5 Total100

Color.-For jelly having the proper color, 20 per cent. is given. The fruit used in the making of jelly determines to a great extent the color of the finished product, but it is possible to have a very wide difference in the colors of jelly made from the same fruit. To be right, jelly should be clear, bright, and not too dark. If the juice is boiled too long, the jelly will be darker than it should be. If pulp has been allowed to pass through the jelly bag in straining out the juice, either through squeezing the bag or using a bag that is too thin, the jelly will be found to have a cloudy appearance.

Solidity.--When jelly is turned from the glass, it should be firm enough to stand alone. If it has not been boiled long enough, it will crush down and perhaps run like sirup. If it is boiled too long or the proportion of juice to sugar is not correct, it may be tough and leathery. Jelly whose solidity is correct scores 25 per cent. in this respect.

Flavor.--The characteristic flavor of the fruit used in making jelly should be retained as much as possible, and when this is the case 25 per cent. is given to the product. The flavor of the jelly is therefore dependent on the flavor of the fruit. In addition, the flavor depends on the amount of sugar used, the amount of acid in the fruit, and the length of time consumed by the boiling. Jellies boiled too long will be strong in flavor.

Sugar Content.--The sugar content of jelly should be determined by the amount of acid that must be sweetened. An insufficient amount of sugar will result in tough, sour jelly, while too large a quantity will make the jelly taffy-like. The correct amount of sugar, which produces the right degree of sweetness, receives a score of 25 per cent.

Method of Sealing.--The method of sealing may seem like a matter of little importance, but if jelly is not sealed properly, it will not be in good condition when it is to be served. To score in this respect, for which 5 per cent. is given, the jelly should be covered with paraffin and then closed with a cover or with paper in order to exclude the dust and dirt.

RECIPES FOR JELLY

38. Recipes for the kinds of jelly usually made are here given. If the directions given in the procedure for jelly making are thoroughly mastered and then applied to these recipes, the housewife will experience very little difficulty in making any of these varieties. Other jellies may, without doubt, be made by combining the proper fruits. All that has to be done in order to determine whether a certain fruit juice or combination of fruit juices will make jelly is to apply the test for pectin already explained. Whatever quantity of jelly is desired may be made, but usually it can be handled best if not more than 6 glassfuls are made at one time.

39. CRAB-APPLE JELLY.--Crab apples are much used for jelly, as they make a product of good consistency and excellent flavor. Apples may be used in the same way as crab apples with equally good results.

Wash the apples thoroughly, remove the stems, and cut into quarters. Make sure that the apples contain no worms. Put them into a kettle, add about half as much water as apples, and cook slowly until the apples are soft. Strain the juice through a jelly bag. Before it stops dripping, return the pulp to the kettle, add half as much water as pulp, and allow the fruit to cook again. Make a second extraction, and in the same way make a third one. Then combine the juice, and strain all of it through a bag to make it clear. Measure 6 or 8 cupfuls of juice, and pour it into a preserving kettle. Boil for about 5 minutes, straining off the scum that rises to the top. To each cupful of juice, add 3/4 to 1 cupful of sugar that has been heated. Crab apples will require 1 cupful of sugar, but apples milder in flavor will not need more than 3/4 cupful. Boil until the test shows that it has boiled long enough. Pour into hot glasses, cool, and seal. Label and then store for later use.

40. CURRANT JELLY.--If jelly having a tart flavor is desired, currant jelly should be tried. This kind of jelly is especially good to serve with the heavy course of a meal.

Wash and stem the currants. Put them into a kettle and add about one-fourth as much water as currants. Boil until the currants are reduced to a pulp. Pour into a jelly bag and strain. Make at least one more extraction, and a third extraction if there is a fairly large quantity of pulp. When all the juice has been strained from the pulp, strain it again through the bag or a heavy cloth. Measure 6 or 8 cupfuls of juice into a kettle, boil for about 5 minutes, and then add from three-fourths to an equal amount of heated sugar. Remove the scum as it forms, taking off as much as possible before the sugar is added. Continue to boil until the tests show that the mixture has cooked sufficiently. Remove from the heat and pour into hot glasses. Cool, seal, label, and store.

41. GRAPE JELLY.--Thoroughly ripe grapes may be used for jelly, but they are not so satisfactory for this purpose as grapes that are only partly ripe. This is due to the fact that green grapes contain more pectin and, upon being cooked, produce fewer of the cream-of-tartar crystals usually found in grape jelly than do ripe ones. The procedure for grape jelly is the same as that for currant jelly. If ripe grapes are used, 3/4 cupful of sugar will be needed to each cupful of juice; but if only partly ripe grapes are used, 1 cupful of sugar will be required for every cupful of juice.

42. QUINCE JELLY.--Because of its attractive color and delicate flavor, quince jelly is much favored. The quinces may be used alone, but if a still more delicate flavor is desired, apples may be added to the quinces, or the parings and cores of the quinces may be used with apples or crab apples. To make quince jelly, proceed in the same way as for apple jelly, using 3/4 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of juice.

43. RASPBERRY JELLY.--Either black or red raspberries may be used for jelly making. To give jelly made from these fruits a better consistency, a small quantity of green grape, crab-apple, or currant juice should be added. The procedure in this case is the same as for currant jelly.

44. STRAWBERRY JELLY.--Unripe strawberries contain a small amount of pectin, but thoroughly ripe ones are almost lacking in this respect. For this reason, strawberries cannot be used alone for making jelly. They make a delicious jelly, however, if currants are combined with them. For each 5 or 6 quarts of strawberries, 1 quart of currants will be sufficient to make a jelly of good consistency. Wash and hull the strawberries and then proceed as for currant jelly.

45. PLUM JELLY.--Plums make a jelly that many persons like. If it is desired to use plums alone, those which are not thoroughly ripe should be selected. Ripe plums do not contain enough pectin for jelly; therefore, a fruit high in pectin, such as crab apples, must be added. The procedure for currant jelly should be followed for plum jelly.

46. PEACH JELLY.--Peaches contain so little pectin that it is almost impossible to make jelly of them unless some other fruit is added in rather large quantities. Currants, crab apples, or green grapes may be used with peaches, and whichever one is selected will be needed in the proportion of about 50 per cent.; that is, half as much additional fruit as peaches is needed. In the making of peach jelly, proceed as for currant jelly.

47. CANNING FRUIT JUICES FOR JELLY.--During the canning season, when a great deal of such work is being done, the housewife often feels that making jelly and preserves is an extravagant use of sugar. Still, fruit juices left over from canning and large quantities of fruit, such as crab apples and currants, that are not suitable for other purposes, will be wasted unless they are used for jelly. If it is not convenient to use the fruit at the time it is obtained, a good plan is to extract the juice as for jelly making and then can it. In case this is done, jelly may be made from the juice during the seasons of the year when less sugar is required for other things.

48. To can fruit juice, extract it from the fruit as for jelly making and then bring it to the boiling point. Select bottles or jars that may be tightly closed, sterilize them, fill them with the boiling juice, and seal them. Bottles may be used for this purpose if they are well corked and then dipped into melted sealing wax or paraffin. When properly sealed, fruit juices will probably keep without any further effort to preserve them, but to make positively certain that they will not spoil, it is a wise precaution to process the filled bottles or jars in boiling water for about 6 or 8 minutes in the same way in which canned fruit is processed. When treated in this way, fruit juices will keep perfectly and may be made into jelly at any time during the winter.

PRESERVING

PRINCIPLES OF PRESERVING

49. PRESERVING consists in preparing fruits in perfect condition to resist decomposition or change by cooking them in heavy sirup. The cooking is done so slightly that the original form, flavor, and color of the fruit are retained as far as possible. This process is similar to that of canning by the open-kettle method; that is, the fruit and sugar are combined and cooked to the proper consistency in the preserving kettle. Sugar is used in such quantity in the preparation of preserves that it acts as a preservative and prevents bacteria from attacking the foods in which it is used. If preserves of any kind ferment, it may be known that not enough sugar was used in their preparation. The sterilization of the product and the air-tight sealing of the containers, which are necessary in the canning of fruits and vegetables, need not be resorted to in the case of preserves.

50. SELECTION OF FRUIT.--When fruit is to be made into preserves, much attention should be paid to its selection, for, as a rule, only the finest fruits are used for preserving. This is especially true of the smaller fruits, such as berries and cherries, for they are preserved whole. Therefore, in order that they may have a good appearance when preserved, it is necessary that they be as perfect as possible to begin with. In addition, the fruit should be thoroughly ripe, but not mushy nor overripe. As the cooking of the fruits in sirup hardens them to a certain extent, fruits that are not sufficiently ripe cannot be used, for they would be too hard when done. If care is used in selecting fruits that are to be preserved, a good-appearing product will be the result, since this process is carried on in such a way as not to impair their shape.

51. METHODS OF PRESERVING.--Several methods of preserving fruit are in practice, but in general the same principles characterise each one. Probably the most successful method consists in bringing a certain proportion of sugar and water to the boiling point, dropping the fruit into the sirup thus formed, and cooking it for a definite length of time. Boiling fruits in heavy sirup has a tendency to make them firm and solid, rather than to cook them to pieces, as would be the case with water or a thin sirup. Even very soft berries, when used for preserves, will retain almost their original size and shape if they are properly cooked. Except for the fact that a heavier sirup is used, the process of preserving fruit is exactly like that of canning fruit by the open-kettle method. The chief precaution to take in this method is that as little water as possible be used, so that the sirup may be very thick when the fruit is added.

Another method that may be recommended because it helps to keep the fruit in good condition consists in cooking it in its own juice. In this method, equal quantities of fruit and sugar are put together and allowed to stand until enough juice is formed, preferably overnight, so that the fruit may be cooked without the addition of any water. Strawberries are excellent when preserved in this way.

Whichever method is followed, better results will be obtained if only a few quarts of fruit are cooked at a time. When a large quantity of berries, for instance, is added to the boiling sirup, they will form such a thick layer that they will have to remain over the fire a long time before they come to the boiling point. They will therefore be much more likely to crush and give the finished product a mushy appearance than if a smaller quantity, which will form a thinner layer, is cooked each time.

52. UTENSILS FOR PRESERVING.--The equipment necessary in the making of preserves is similar to that used for making jelly, with the exception of the dripping bag and the hydrometer. A good-sized preserving kettle is, of course, required for the cooking of the fruit and sirup; a measuring cup and a quart measure are needed for the measuring of the ingredients; and a long-handled wooden spoon or paddle is the most convenient utensil with which to stir all foods of this class. Containers similar to those used for jelly will be satisfactory receptacles in which to put preserves, but as preserved fruits are not turned out in a mold, almost any kind of wide-mouthed bottle or jar may be used for this purpose. Paraffin should also be provided, as this should always be used for the first covering to prevent the formation of molds, which are likely to grow on moist sweet substances exposed to the air. Before using paraffin for preserves, they should be allowed to stand until the surface has become absolutely dry. It is well to label preserves, too; so labels should be kept on hand for this purpose.

RECIPES FOR PRESERVED FRUITS

53. The several methods of preserving fruits result in considerable variety in the finished product. Preserves proper are those cooked in a heavy sirup, either whole or cut into pieces. In addition to being prepared in this way, fruit may be made into conserve, marmalade, jam, and butter. Specific directions for the preparation of each one of these varieties are here given, together with a number of recipes showing the kinds of fruit most suitable for the different varieties. No housewife need deprive her family of any of these delicious preparations if she will familiarize herself with the methods explained and will follow out minutely the directions given. In the making of the various kinds of preserves, just as much care must be exercised as in canning and jelly making if the best results are desired.

PRESERVES

54. STRAWBERRY PRESERVE.--Strawberries selected for preserves should be of the dark, solid variety, if possible, since these shrink less and retain their shape and size better than do the lighter varieties. This fruit is made into preserves probably more often than any other kind, and this is not strange, for it makes a most delicious preserve.

• 2 qt. strawberries
• 1/2 c. hot water
• 1 lb. sugar

Clean the strawberries by placing them in a colander and raising and lowering them into a large pan of water. Remove the hulls and make sure that all the water is carefully drained from the berries. Add the water to the sugar and place over the fire in a preserving kettle that has a smooth surface. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, and allow the mixture to come to a rapid boil. To the rapidly boiling sirup, add the strawberries by dropping them carefully into it. Allow the fruit to come to the boiling point in the sirup, and continue to boil for 10 or 12 minutes. If the berries seem to contain an unusual amount of water, boiling for 15 minutes may be necessary. Remove from the fire and fill into hot sterilized glasses at once, or set aside to cool. It has been found that if the preserves are allowed to stand in the kettle overnight, they will improve in flavor and, because of the absorption of oxygen, which they lose in boiling, they will increase in size. If the preserves are treated in this way, it will be necessary to pour them cold into the sterilized glasses. When the preserves in the glasses are cold, pour melted paraffin over them. Cover them with metal or paper covers, label, and store for future use.

55. CHERRY PRESERVE.--If sour cherries can be secured, an excellent preserve can be made of them. Cherries should, of courser be seeded, or pitted, when they are prepared in this way.

• 2 qt. seeded sour cherries
• 1 c. hot water
• 1-1/2 lb. sugar

Drain off the superfluous juice from the cherries. Add the hot water to the sugar in a preserving kettle, and allow the mixture to come to a boil. Add the cherries and boil for 10 or 12 minutes. Have hot sterilized jelly glasses ready and fill with the hot preserves. Allow the preserves to cool, cover first with paraffin and then with metal or paper covers, and label.

56. RASPBERRY PRESERVE.--Although red raspberries are a rather soft fruit, they can be used very well for preserves if care is taken not to break them into pieces by too long cooking or too rapid boiling.

• 2 qt. red raspberries
• 3/4 c. hot water
• 1 lb. sugar

Wash the raspberries by placing them in a colander and raising and lowering them in a large pan of cold water. Mix the hot water with the sugar in a preserving kettle, place the mixture over the fire and bring to the boiling point. Add the raspberries to the boiling sirup, and when they have come to the boiling point, cook for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the hot preserves from the fire and pour into hot sterilized jars. Allow them to cool, seal with paraffin and metal or paper covers, and label.

57. PLUM PRESERVE.--A very rich, tart preserve can be made by cooking plums in a thick sirup. Those who care for the flavor of plums will find preserves of this kind very much to their taste.

• 2 qt. plums
• 1 c. hot water
• 1-1/2 lb. sugar

Select any variety of plums desired for preserves, and wash them in cold water. Cut them in half and remove the seeds. Place the hot water and the sugar in a preserving kettle, and bring to a rapid boil. Add the plums and boil slowly for 15 minutes. Remove from the fire, pour into hot sterilized jelly glasses. Allow them to cool and cover first with paraffin and then with metal or paper covers. Before storing, label each glass neatly.

58. QUINCE PRESERVE.--Quinces combined with apples make a preserve that finds favor with many. As shown in the accompanying recipe, about one-third as many apples as quinces make the required proportion.

• 3 qt. quinces, peeled and quartered
• 1 qt. apples, peeled and quartered
• 1-1/2 c. hot water
• 3 lb. sugar

Select well-ripened quinces. Rub the fuzz from the skin with a cloth, and then wash, peel, quarter, and core. If desired, they may be sliced, but they are very nice when preserved in quarters. Select firm apples, wash, peel, quarter, and core them, and cut them the same size as the quinces. Add the water to the sugar, place the mixture over the fire in a preserving kettle, and let it come to a boil. Add the quinces, cook until tender, and remove from the sirup. Then cook the apples in the sirup in the same way, and when tender remove from the sirup. Place the fruits in alternate layers in hot jars. Unless the sirup is very thick, boil it until it becomes heavy; then fill each jarful of fruit with this sirup. Seal with paraffin, cover with metal or paper covers, and label.

59. PEACH PRESERVE.--Although somewhat bland in flavor, peaches make an excellent preserve. Some persons prefer them cut into very small slices, while others like them preserved in large slices.

• 4 qt. peaches
• 1-1/2 c. hot water
• 3 lb. sugar

Select firm peaches. Wash, pare, and cut into slices of any desirable size. Add the water to the sugar in a preserving kettle, place over the fire, and allow the mixture to come to a rapid boil. Drop the sliced peaches into the sirup and cook until tender. Have hot sterilized jars ready, fill with the hot preserves, and seal with paraffin. Cover in the desired way and label.

CONSERVES

60. CONSERVES do not differ materially from preserves in their preparation, but they usually consist of a mixture of two or more fruits, whereas preserves are made from a single fruit. All rules that govern the making of preserves apply equally well to the making of conserves.

There are certain fruits that combine very well as far as flavor, color, etc. are concerned, and these are generally used together in the preparation of this food. However, almost any combination of fruits may be made into conserves. This is therefore a very good way in which to utilize small quantities of left-over fruits. Then, too, a cheap material may be combined with a more expensive one to make a larger quantity of a moderately priced product, as, for instance, rhubarb and pineapple. Again, the pulp from which juice has been extracted for jelly may be used to make conserve. In fact, a little ingenuity on the part of the housewife and familiarity with general preserving methods will enable her to make many kinds of excellent conserves, even though she may not have a definite rule or recipe to cover the use of the particular material that happens to be on hand.

61. STRAWBERRY-AND-PINEAPPLE CONSERVE.--The combination of strawberries and pineapple is an excellent one. The accompanying recipe shows how to combine these fruits to make a most appetizing conserve.

• 2 qt. strawberries
• 1 large pineapple
• 1 c. hot water
• 2-1/2 lb. sugar

Prepare the strawberries as for canning. Peel and slice the pineapple, remove the eyes, and cut into small pieces. Add the water to the sugar in a preserving kettle, and allow it to come to a boil. Drop the pieces of pineapple into the sirup and cook them until they are tender. To this add the strawberries and cook for 5 or 10 minutes longer. The conserve should then be sufficiently cooked to put into the jars. If the juice seems too thin, fill the jars, which should be hot sterilized ones, about three-fourths full of the fruit, and then return the sirup to the heat and boil it until it is the right consistency. Remove the boiling sirup from the stove, and pour it over the fruit in the jars until they are full. Allow the conserve to cool, and then seal, first with paraffin and then with metal or paper covers. Label each glass and set away for future use.

62. STRAWBERRY-AND-RHUBARB CONSERVE.--Rhubarb combines very well with either strawberries or pineapple. The accompanying recipe is for strawberries and rhubarb, but if pineapple is desired, it may be substituted for the strawberries in the same quantity.

• 2 qt. strawberries
• 1-1/2 qt. rhubarb
• 1-1/2 c. hot water
• 3 lb. sugar

Prepare the strawberries as for canning. Cut the rhubarb, which should be very tender, into cubes without removing the skin. Add the water to the sugar, and bring to a rapid boil in a preserving kettle. Put the rhubarb and strawberries into this sirup, and cook for at least 15 minutes. Pour into hot sterilized glasses, and when cool seal in the usual way. Label and store.

63. PINEAPPLE-AND-APRICOT CONSERVE.--No more delicious conserve can be made than pineapple-and-apricot conserve. The tartness of the apricots gives a flavor that is pleasing to most persons.

• 2 qt. apricots
• 1 large pineapple
• 1 c. hot water
• 2-1/2 lb. sugar

Wash the apricots, plunge them into boiling water to remove the skins, and then cut into quarters. Peel and slice the pineapple, remove the eyes, and cut into cubes. Add the water to the sugar in a preserving kettle, and bring to the boiling point. Add the pineapple to the sirup, and cook until tender. Then drop in the apricots and boil several minutes longer. Have hot sterilized glasses ready, fill them with the conserve, and when cool seal in the usual way. Before putting the glasses away, label each one neatly.

64. CRAB-APPLE-AND-ORANGE CONSERVE.--It is a good idea to make crab-apple-and-orange conserve at the same time that crab-apple jelly is made, for the pulp that remains after extracting the juice may be utilized for the conserve. However, if it is desired to make it at some other time, fresh pulp can be prepared for the purpose.

• 1 qt. crab-apple pulp
• 3 lb. sugar
• 8 oranges

To the crab-apple pulp, add the sugar, and place over the fire to boil. Peel the oranges, scoop out the white portion from the peelings, cut the peelings into thin strips, and add to the crab-apple pulp. Remove the pulp of the orange from the skins and from between the sections, cut it into small pieces, and add to the boiling mixture a few minutes before it is removed from the stove. When it has cooked thick, pour into hot sterilized glasses. Cool and then seal and label.

65. PLUM CONSERVE.--A rather unusual conserve is made by combining raisins and English walnut meats with plums. The accompanying recipe gives directions for the preparation of this conserve.

• 4 qt. plums
• 1 c. hot water
• 2 lb. sugar
• 1 lb. raisins
• 2 c. English walnut meats

Wash the plums, cut them in half, and remove the seeds. Add the water to the sugar, place over the fire in a preserving kettle, and stir until the mixture comes to a rapid boil. Wash the raisins, which should be seeded, add them with the plums to the sirup, and cook until the mixture is the consistency of jelly. Just before removing from the stove, add the nut meats. Pour the mixture into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label. If very sour plums are used, increase the amount of sugar.

66. CHERRY-AND-PINEAPPLE CONSERVE.--Cherries combine very well with pineapple in a conserve. Sweet cherries should, if possible, be used for this purpose.

• 2 qt. sweet cherries
• 1 pineapple
• 2 lb. sugar
• 1 c. hot water

Wash, stem, and seed the cherries. Slice and peel the pineapple and remove the eyes. Put the sugar and water over the fire in a preserving kettle, and stir until the sirup comes to the boiling point. To this sirup add the pineapple and the cherries and cook until the juice is very thick. Pour into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.

67. RED-RASPBERRY-AND-CURRANT CONSERVE.--A conserve having a very attractive color and a most appetizing flavor is made by combining red raspberries with red currants.

• 3 qt. red raspberries
• 1 qt. red currants
• 1 c. hot water
• 2-1/2 lb. sugar

Look the raspberries over carefully, and remove any that show signs of spoiling. Wash the currants and stem them. Add the water to the sugar and put the mixture over the fire to boil. Add the currants to this, and stir until the mixture comes to the boiling point. Boil for several minutes, or until the mixture begins to thicken, and then add the red raspberries. Continue to boil for 2 or 3 minutes longer. Pour into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.

68. CARROT CONSERVE.--Conserve made from carrots will be found to be surprisingly delicious, and it has the added advantage of being inexpensive.

• 1-1/2 qt. cooked cut carrots
• Rind of 2 lemons
• 5 c. sugar
• 2 c. hot water
• Juice of 3 lemons

Boil the carrots until tender and chop or put through a grinder with the lemon rind. Then mix with the sugar, water, and lemon juice, and boil for about 1/2 hour or until thick. Put into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.

MARMALADES

69. MARMALADES are a form of preserves that differ from the other varieties more in the nature of the fruit used than in any other respect. For marmalades, large fruits are generally used, and, as a rule, the fruits are left in sections or in comparatively large pieces. The preparation of this food, however, differs in no way from preserves proper and conserves, the processes of cooking, sealing, storing, etc. being practically the same.

70. ORANGE MARMALADE.--Oranges combined with half as many lemons make a marmalade that most persons like. In fact, orange marmalade is probably made more often than any other kind.

• 12 oranges
• 6 lemons
• 1-1/2 qt. hot water
• 5 lb. sugar

Peel the oranges and the lemons in the same way an apple would be peeled, inserting the knife deep enough to cut through the skin covering the sections. Remove the contents of the sections and squeeze out any juice that may remain in the thin skin. Remove the white material from the inside of the peeling, and cut the yellow portion that remains into thin strips. Add the water to the skins and simmer slowly for 1 hour. At the end of this time, add the sugar and the orange and the lemon pulp, and boil until the mixture is thick. Pour into hot, sterilized glasses, cool, and then seal and label.

71. ORANGE-AND-RHUBARB MARMALADE.--If a somewhat different flavor is desired in a marmalade, rhubarb instead of lemons may be used with oranges, as shown in the accompanying recipe.

• 8 oranges
• 1 qt. hot water
• 4 lb. sugar
• 3 qt. rhubarb cut into pieces

Prepare the oranges as for orange marmalade. Slowly cook the yellow part of the skin in 1 quart of water for 1/2 hour. To this add the sugar and the rhubarb, and cook slowly until it is quite thick. Stir in the orange pulp and cook until the mixture is again thick. Pour into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.

72. QUINCE MARMALADE.--Quinces cut into quarters, cooked, and then forced through a sieve make an exceptionally good marmalade, so far as both flavor and color are concerned. No other fruit need be used with the quinces, as they have enough flavor in themselves.

• 4 qt. quartered quinces
• 1 qt. hot water
• 4 lb. sugar

Wipe the fuzz from the quinces, wash, quarter, and remove the cores, but do not peel. Put over the fire in a preserving kettle with the water. Cook until the quinces are soft, remove from the fire, and mash through a sieve. Add the sugar to the quince pulp, replace on the fire, and cook until the mixture is thick, stirring constantly to prevent burning. Pour into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.

73. GRAPE MARMALADE.--The pulp and skins of grapes are especially satisfactory for marmalade. In fact, most persons who are fond of grapes find marmalade of this kind very appetizing.

• 4 qt. stemmed grapes
• 2 c. hot water
• 3 lb. sugar

Separate the pulp of the grapes from the skins, put it into a preserving kettle with the water, and heat to the boiling point. Cook slowly until the seeds can be separated from the pulp, and then remove the seeds by pressing the pulp through a sieve. Return to the preserving kettle with the grape skins. Add the sugar, and cook the mixture slowly until it is thick, stirring constantly to prevent scorching. Care must be taken not to cook it too long, as the marmalade becomes quite stiff. Pour into hot, sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.

74. ORANGE-AND-PINEAPPLE MARMALADE.--No better combination can be secured than oranges and pineapple. To make marmalade, both fruits are cut into small pieces and then cooked in a thick sirup.

• 8 oranges
• 2 c. hot water
• 2 pineapples
• 4 lb. sugar

Wash the oranges, cut skins and all into small pieces, remove the seeds, and boil slowly in the water until the skins are soft. Prepare the pineapples by peeling them, removing the eyes, and then shredding or cutting into very small pieces. Add the pineapple to the orange, stir in sugar, and continue to boil until the juice is at the jelly stage. Pour into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.

JAMS

75. JAM is similar to preserves, except that the fruit used is made into a pulp before it is cooked with the sugar or after a part of the cooking is done. As a rule, only whole small fruits are used for jams, but the larger fruits can be utilized for this purpose by being cut fine and made into a pulp. When small fruits are used, part or all of the seeds are sometimes removed, but generally the seeds are allowed to remain if they are not too large. Jam is made thick by long boiling, and when done is usually quite smooth. A precaution, however, that should always be taken is not to cook it too long, for jam is very unappetizing if it is too thick.

Fruit may be purchased purposely for jam, but for the most part, this form of preserve is made of imperfect or very ripe fruits that are not suitable for canning, preserves, and other processes that require almost perfect fruit. If this point is kept in mind, it will be possible, during the canning season, to make into a delicious jam fruit that would otherwise be wasted.

76. STRAWBERRY JAM.--As strawberries have very small seeds, this fruit makes an excellent jam.

• 4 qt. strawberries
• 2 lb. sugar

Wash and hull the strawberries. Then mash them in a preserving kettle and add the sugar to them. Place over the fire, and boil slowly until the mixture becomes thick, stirring frequently to prevent the jam from sticking to the kettle and scorching. When the jam is cooked to the proper consistency, the juice should test as for jelly. Pour the mixture into hot sterilized glasses, cool, and then seal and label.

77. RASPBERRY JAM.--Both red and black raspberries are much used for jam. Some persons like to remove the seeds from raspberry jam, but as very little pulp remains after the seeds are taken out, this plan is not recommended.

• 4 qt. raspberries
• 2 lb. sugar

Look over the raspberries carefully and then wash. Put them into a preserving kettle with the sugar. Heat to the boiling point, and cook slowly for a few minutes. Then mash the berries to a pulp, and continue to cook until the mixture thickens and the juice tests as for jelly. Pour into hot sterilized jars, cool, seal, and label.

78. GREEN-GAGE JAM.--Green gages make a smooth, tart jam that appeals to most persons. The seeds of the plums are, of course, removed, but the skins are allowed to remain in the jam.

• 4 qt. green-gage plums
• 4 lb. sugar
• 1-1/2 c. hot water

Wash the plums, cut them in half, and remove the seeds, but not the skins. Dissolve the sugar in the water over the fire, and when it comes to the boiling point, add the plums. Cook slowly until the plums are mushy and the entire mixture is thick. Pour into sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label. If sweet plums are used, decrease the quantity of sugar.

79. GOOSEBERRY JAM.--When gooseberries are well ripened, they make very good jam. As this fruit is rather tart, considerable sugar must be used if a sweet jam is desired.

• 4 qt. gooseberries
• 3 lb. sugar

Remove the stems and blossom ends from the gooseberries and wash thoroughly. Add the sugar to the berries in a preserving kettle. Bring to a rapid boil, cook for a few minutes, and then mash the berries to a pulp. Cook until the mixture thickens and tests as for jelly. Pour into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.

80. BLACKBERRY JAM.--Probably no jam is so well liked as that made from blackberries. Some varieties of these are large in size and contain considerable pulp in proportion to seeds. These are especially suitable for jam.

• 4 qt. blackberries
• 1/2 c. hot water
• 2 lb. sugar

Wash the berries thoroughly, and put them over the fire with the water. Bring to the boiling point, and boil slowly for a few minutes. Then mash the berries, add the sugar, and cook the mixture until, when tested, it is of a jelly-like consistency. Pour into hot, sterilized glasses, cool, and label.

BUTTERS

81. FRUIT BUTTERS are a form of preserves similar to jams, and are used in the place of preserves, jams, conserves, or marmalades. The fruit used for this purpose, which may be either large or small, is usually very ripe and somewhat soft. Therefore, as in the case of jams, imperfect fruits that are not suitable for other purposes can be used very well for butters.

Butters made from fruits differ from jams in that both the skins and seeds are always removed. The completed mixture is smooth and thick, having been made thick by long boiling and evaporation, rather than by the addition of large quantities of sugar. In fact, less sugar is used for butters proportionately than for any other preserved fruit. Spices are generally used in butters, so that the mixture is very highly flavored.

To prevent butters from scorching, they should be stirred constantly for a long period of time. This stirring becomes very tiresome, but it should not be stopped or the mixture is certain to scorch. If they are properly cooked, butters keep well with very little care in storage. Crocks are generally used for the storage of butters, but glasses or jars may be substituted.

82. APPLE BUTTER.--Apples are very often made into butter, but for this purpose sour apples that will cook soft should be selected. If the procedure explained in the accompanying recipe is followed, very good results may be expected.

• 4 qt. apples
• 8 qt. cider
• 1 lb. sugar
• 3 tsp. cinnamon
• 1 tsp. cloves
• 1 tsp. allspice

Peel the apples and quarter them. Boil the cider until it is reduced half. Add the apples to the cider, and cook slowly for about 3 hours, or until they are mushy, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon to prevent the apples from sticking to the bottom of the kettle. At the end of this time, the mixture should be thick and smooth and dark in color. If it gets too thick, more cider can be added. About 1 hour before the cooking is completed, add the sugar and the spices. Even greater care must be exercised from this time on to prevent scorching. If, after cooking 3 hours, the mixture is not sufficiently thick, continue to cook until more of the moisture is evaporated. Have hot sterilized glasses or crocks ready, fill them with the butter, cool, and seal.

83. PEACH BUTTER.--Peaches are especially satisfactory when made into butter. This fruit does not require such long cooking as apples, as will be seen in the accompanying recipe.

• 4 qt. peaches
• 1 c. hot water
• 1 lb. sugar
• 1 tsp. cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp. cloves

Wash the peaches, rub them to remove the fuzz, cut them in half, and take out the seeds. Measure the peaches and put them with the water into the preserving kettle, bring them to a boil, and cook until they are thoroughly softened. Then press them through a sieve or a colander, return the pulp to the preserving kettle, and add the sugar and the spices. Cook slowly for 1 or 2 hours, or until it has become a rich dark, clear color. Pour the butter into hot sterilized glasses or crocks, cool, and seal.

84. PEAR BUTTER.--An appetizing fruit butter can be made from pears in the same way that peach butter is made.

• 4 qt. pears, quartered
• 2 c. hot water
• 1 lb. sugar
• 2 tsp. cinnamon
• 1 tsp. cloves

Wash, cut, and core the pears, but do not peel them. Cut them into quarters, and put the quarters into a preserving kettle with the water. Bring to the boiling point, and boil until soft or mushy. Remove from the kettle and force through a sieve or a colander. To the pulp, add the sugar and spices, return to the kettle, and cook slowly for about 2 hours, stirring constantly to prevent scorching. If 2 hours is not sufficient to cook the mixture dry, cook a little longer. Pour into hot sterilized glasses or jars, cool, and seal.

85. PLUM BUTTER.--Another very good way in which to preserve plums for future use is to make butter of them. The accompanying recipe explains the correct procedure for butter of this kind.

• 4 qt. plums
• 1 c. hot water
• 3 lb. sugar
• 2 tsp. cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp. cloves

Wash the plums, cut them in half, and remove the seeds. Put the plums with the water into a preserving kettle, and boil until they are soft. Press them through a sieve or a colander, return to the preserving kettle, and add the sugar and spices. Boil until the mixture is thick and jelly-like, stirring constantly to prevent scorching. Pour into hot sterilized crocks or glasses, cool, and seal. If very sour plums are used, increase the amount of sugar.